FussyBrush Brush Shaper Instructions |
| “FussyBrush” Brush
Shaper / Serrator Installation:1. Replace motor armature / commutator
with the Fussy Brush Internal Shaft with the spring on the pinion
gear end.2. Place the appropriate bit on the end of the shaft
with the slots over the pin.3. Replace endbell on motor and add
pinion on end for turning. There is a small piece of shrink tube
to cover a pinion if you want.4. With Full Face cuts you can
use the motor spring for pressure or apply pressure to the brush
with a screwdriver. With the Serrator the springs do not provide
enough pressure so you have to use a tool and do one brush at
a time. |
| Full
Face Instructions:1. It takes very little effort to shape
your brush with the Full Face bits.2. You can rotate the
shaft both directions if you are re-shaping a brush (standup
to laydown or laydown to standup)3. Always finish the shaping
in the normal rotation of the motor. This pulls the brush
in that direction and gives a closer shape.4. You can re-face
the brushes between races with just 1 or 2 turns with tool
or you can simply take the bit and roll it between your fingers
against the brush face without even installing it in the
motor. |
| Brush
Serrator Instructions:1. Cutting serrations is not perfect.
Don't expect perfect. Don’t try to get perfect. It’s
not going to happen. You will just get frustrated. Depending
on the brush compounds and the amount of graphite in the
brush the graphite will sometimes come loose on the tips
of the serrations. I'm talking about little bitty pieces
that can only be seen with a jeweler’s loupe. On a
scale of 1 to 10, I would rate the cut at 8 to 9. What you
will end up with is deep serrations with some texture on
the tips. The tips of the serrations will dissipate quickly
and leave a nice wide and deep serration. They will seat
to the comm quickly because they are done in the motor. Test
a few to see how fast they run in after serrating. 2. Re-shaping
a brush from standup to laydown or laydown to standup is
easier with the full face shaper. What happens is the brush
serrations will bottom out once the center of the brush is
serrated and the peaks on the brush start hitting the valleys
of the cutter. Re-shaping can be done with the serrator,
it just takes longer and takes a lot of pressure on the brush.
If you don’t have the Full Face Shaper Bits then you
should use a file or sandpaper over a wood dowel to do the
initial shaping.3. Serrations are cut by installing the FussyBrush
main shaft with the appropriate serrator bit size. Put a
pinion on the shaft and rotate slowly while applying light
pressure to the brush with a screwdriver or hex wrench. If
it’s a new serration you should go back and forth to
get started and the as the serrations start forming go in
motor direction only. Increase the pressure on the brush
as the serrations form. If you are re-serrating just go in
the motor direction. You can feel the cut being made and
as it finishes the cut the feeling gets smoother. Kind of
a touch thing. Like setting a pinion. Not hard at all but
you do want to practice on some old brushes first. Always
try to finish the cut in the normal direction of motor rotation.4.
Re-serrating is easy. Just make sure you keep your brush
in the same position. I always keep my shunt wire on the
bottom so the spring fits on top over it. Also, when re-serrating
go in the motor rotation direction and don’t try to
make them too deep.5. Adding a drop of lubricant to the brush
tip can help provide a cleaner cut on some brushes. (Tribo,
comm drops, liquid wrench, Mobil 1) I really don’t
think it is needed; it just gives you something else to clean
up and doesn’t improve the cut enough in my opinion
to make it worthwhile. Given enough effort with some oil
you can get a 10 cut but that kind of defeats the purpose
of the product and doesn’t improve performance.6. You
will also get a better cut if you don’t try to make
the serrations too deep. What happens is when the serrations
start getting to an absolute point then they can break off.
You can cut the serrations only part way to full depth and
they will still be deeper than the stock brush serrations.7.
This is not difficult but it isn’t a no-brainer like
the full face cut. You need to practice on some old brushes
and see how the tool works. |
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